The invention includes a method of increasing the substantivity of a personal care composition to hair, skin or nails by preparing a composition of an aqueous phase, a non-aqueous phase and a neutralized amino acid ester that is a reaction product of a neutral amino acid having a non-polar side chain with a long chain fatty alcohol and is represented by formula (I):
##STR00001##
wherein R1 is an alkyl group; R2 is a linear or branched carbon chain; and the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized with an acid. The composition is substantially free of petrochemicals and/or derivatives of petrochemical materials. The aqueous phase and the non-aqueous phase are emulsified by the neutralized amino acid ester. Other methods and an emulsifiers that is the neutralized amino acid ester are included. Because the neutralized amino acid ester and the compositions do not contain petrochemical-derived ingredient, the products are natural.
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0. 19. A method of preparing a personal care composition comprising preparing a composition that comprises an aqueous phase, a non-aqueous phase and a neutralized amino acid ester that is a reaction product of one or more of L-alanine, L-valine, L-leucine, and L-isoleucine with a long chain fatty alcohol and is represented by formula (I):
##STR00009##
wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl group; R2 is a linear or branched carbon chain, wherein an amine group of the amino acid is neutralized with an acid, wherein the composition is substantially free of petrochemicals and/or derivatives of petrochemical materials, emulsifying the aqueous phase and the non-aqueous phase with the neutralized amino acid ester, and applying the personal care composition to a surface of hair, skin or nails.
1. A method of increasing the substantivity of a personal care composition to hair, skin or nails comprising:
preparing a composition that comprises an aqueous phase, a non-aqueous phase and a neutralized amino acid ester that is a reaction product of a neutral amino acid having a non-polar side chain with a long chain fatty alcohol and is represented by formula (I):
##STR00007##
wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl group;
R2 is a linear or branched carbon chain; and
the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized with an acid, and wherein the composition is substantially free of petrochemicals and/or derivatives of petrochemical materials, and the aqueous phase and the non-aqueous phase are emulsified by the neutralized amino acid ester; and
applying the personal care composition to a surface of hair, skin or nails.
0. 14. A method of increasing the substantivity of a personal care composition to hair, skin or nails comprising: preparing a composition that comprises an aqueous phase, a non-aqueous phase and a neutralized amino acid ester that is a reaction product of one or more of L-alanine, L-valine, L-leucine, and L-isoleucine with a long chain fatty alcohol and is represented by formula (1):
##STR00008##
wherein R1 is a linear or branched alkyl group; R2 is a linear or branched carbon chain; and the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized with an acid, and wherein the composition is substantially free of petrochemicals and/or derivatives of petrochemical materials, and the aqueous phase and the non-aqueous phase are emulsified by the neutralized amino acid ester; and applying the personal care composition to a surface of hair, skin or nails.
2. The method of
4. The method of
6. The method of
9. The method of
10. The method of
11. The method of
12. The method of
13. The method of
0. 15. The method of claim 14, wherein the neutral amino acid is obtained from vegetable matter.
0. 16. The method of claim 14, wherein the long chain fatty alcohol is chosen from Brassica alcohol, coconut fatty alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and/or mixtures thereof.
0. 17. The method of claim 14, wherein the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized by an ethanesulfonic acid that is derived from an ethanol that is derived from fermentation of vegetable matter.
0. 18. The method of claim 14, wherein the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized by an acid chosen from hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, and nitric.
0. 20. The method of claim 19, wherein the neutral amino acid is obtained from vegetable matter.
0. 21. The method of claim 19, wherein the long chain fatty alcohol is chosen from Brassica alcohol, coconut fatty alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and/or mixtures thereof.
0. 22. The method of claim 19, wherein the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized by an ethanesulfonic acid that is derived from an ethanol that is derived from fermentation of vegetable matter.
0. 23. The method of claim 19, wherein the amine group of the amino acid is neutralized by an acid chosen from hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, and nitric.
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The results of this study indicate that Formulation A performs comparably to behentrimonium chloride (Garnier) and stearamidopropl dimethylamine (Pantene) based conditioners. The Formulation A conditioner was slightly more substantive than the Pantene, but less than Gamier, and well within commercially acceptable parameters. The results are expressed as ΔE, which accounts for variations in tone and hue versus the unconditioned tresses.
Exemplary formulations for hair and skin care compositions are shown below (formulations A to M). None contains petrochemicals and/or petrochemical-derived materials.
A. Daily Conditioner for Normal Hair
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
84.05
L-Arginine
0.15
BLIE
4.50
Part B
Stearyl alcohol
3.75
Cetyl Alcohol
3.75
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
3.00
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Total
100.00
B. Intense Moisturizing Hair Conditioner
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
74.34
L-Arginine
0.16
BLIE
5.20
Glycerine
5.00
Part B
Cetearyl Alcohol
7.50
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
6.50
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
0.50
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Total
100.00
C. Leave-In Hair Conditioning Treatment
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
89.11
L-Arginine
0.14
BLIE
3.75
Part B
Cetyl Alcohol
2.10
Stearyl Alcohol
2.10
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
2.00
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Total
100.00
D. Rich Conditioning Treatment (Hair)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
81.05
L-Arginine
0.15
BLIE
4.50
Part B
Cetyl Alcohol
3.75
Stearyl Alcohol
3.75
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
2.00
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Total
100.00
E. Baby Lotion (Skin)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
80.25
L-Arginine
00.25
Glycerin
2.00
Part B
BLIE
3.00
Brassica Alcohol
3.00
Brassica Glycerides
2.00
Heptyl Undecylenate
4.00
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
4.00
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.00
Part C
Natural Fragrance
0.30
Total
100.00
F. Rich Body Butter (Skin)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
68.04
L-Arginine
0.16
Glycerine
4.00
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
1.00
Part B
BLIE
5.20
Cetyl Alcohol
3.50
Behenyl Alcohol
3.50
Heptyl Undecylenate
5.00
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
7.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
1.50
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Natural Fragrance
0.30
Total
100.00
G. Conditioning Cream (Hair)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
85.30
L-Arginine
0.15
Glycerine
0.50
Part B
BLIE
3.70
Brassica Alcohol
6.55
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
3.00
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Total
100.00
H. Deep Conditioning Treatment (Hair)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
76.55
L-Arginine
0.25
Glycerine
0.50
Part B
BLIE
4.00
Brassica Alcohol
7.00
Heptyl Undecylenate
3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1.00
Cetyl Alcohol
5.00
Polyester-11
0.50
Part C
Keratin Amino Acids
1.00
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.20
Total
100.00
I. Moisturizing Conditioner for Curly Hair
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
75.05
L-Arginine
0.25
Sorbitol
2.00
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.00
Panthenol
0.50
Glycerine
2.50
Polyester-11
0.50
Part B
BLIE
4.00
Cetearyl Alcohol
10.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1.00
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil
2.00
Part C
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
1.00
Total
100.00
J. Light Daily Conditioner (Hair)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
89.20
L-Arginine
0.20
Glycerine
0.50
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.00
Part B
BLIE
1.80
Brassica Alcohol
3.20
Heptyl Undecylenate
1.00
Cetyl Alcohol
3.00
Part C
Natural Fragrance
0.10
Total
100.00
K. Leave-In Conditioning Spary (Hair)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
91.25
L-Arginine
0.15
Glycerine
0.50
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.00
Part B
BLIE
1.25
Brassica Alcohol
2.25
Heptyl Undecylenate
1.00
Cetyl Alcohol
1.50
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil
0.50
Part C
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
0.50
Natural Fragrance
0.10
Total
100.00
L. Deluxe Moisturizier
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
56.85
L-Arginine
0.15
Glycerine
5.00
Part B
BLIE
4.50
Brassica Alcohol
4.50
Brassica Glycerides
3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
25.00
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.00
Total
100.00
M. Sprayable Hydrating Lotion (Skin)
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
84.30
L-Arginine
0.20
Glycerine
5.00
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.00
Part B
BLIE
2.05
Brassica Alcohol
2.05
Brassica Glycerides
1.40
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
4.00
Total
100.00
Two conditioning formulations in accordance with the invention were prepared specifically to evaluate the aesthetic characteristics of the formulations. Each was prepared with out any petrochemical materials. Formulation K included both leucine isostearyl ester esylate (LIEE) and Brassicyl L-isoleucinate esylate (BLIE). Formulation C included BLIE only.
The formulations were prepared simultaneously using the following procedure. With reference to Table 8 below, Part A, deionized water, glycerine and arginine were combined in a vessel with propeller agitation and heated to about 70 to about 75° C. and agitated until a clear solution was obtained. In a separate vessel, Brassica alcohol, cetyl alcohol, heptyl undecylenate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl monocaprylate and Brassicyl L-isoleucinate esylate (BLIE) were combined and heated to about 70° C. to about 75° C., then agitated until a uniform mixture was obtained. The contents of the second vessel were added to the first, and agitated at a temperature of about 70 to about 75° C. until a milky dispersion was obtained (about 10 minutes.) The mixture was then allowed to cool with sweep agitation to about 30° C. to about 35° C. Agitation was then stopped, and the completed conditioner formulation was poured off to containers.
TABLE 8
K
C
Ingredients
% w/w
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
77.05
78.05
L-Arginine
0.25
0.25
Glycerine
0.50
0.50
Part B
BLIE
4.00
4.00
Brassica Alcohol
7.00
7.00
Heptyl Undecylenate
3.00
3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1.00
1.00
Cetyl Alcohol
5.00
5.00
Leucine Isostearyl Ester Esylate
1.00
0
Glyceryl Monocaprylate
1.20
1.20
Total
100.00
100.00
Test formula K was a milky, creamy emulsion while hot and cooled to a smooth uniform emulsion with a glossy finish. Test formula C was thicker and the resulting emulsion was grainy and dull in appearance. Test formula C, without LIEE, was less stable at elevated temperature. Test formula K was stable for 90 days at 25° C. and 45° C.
A conditioning cream in accordance with the invention was prepared by incorporating the ingredients of Part A (Table 9, below) and Part B (Table 9, below), and subsequently mixing Parts A and B together.
TABLE 9
Conditioning Cream
Ingredients
% w/w
Part A
Deionized water
85.30
L-Arginine
0.15
Glycerin
0.50
Part B
BLIE
3.70
Brassica Alcohol
6.55
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
3.00
Part C
Preservative
0.80
Total
100.00
The resulting conditioning cream was evaluated against commercially available products (containing petrochemical derivatives) for various performance characteristics in Examples 10-12.
The primary technical function of most conditioning products is to lubricate the hair surface, and in doing so to facilitate manageability and mediate degrading feel properties. Thus, protection, conditioning, and manageability properties of a product may be evaluated through combing experiments that quantify the lubrication magnitude. Accordingly, the conditioning cream of Example 9 (“CC9”) was evaluated for these properties in a wet combing study. Virgin (un-colored or unbleached) European medium brown hair test tresses (supplied by International Hair Importers) were prepared to be 1 inch wide, 8 inches long and contained 3 grams of hair.
To eliminate any structural differences in the hair, each tress was initially bleached using a 6% hydrogen peroxide solution at pH of 10.2. The tresses were left in contact with the bleach solution for 50 minutes under controlled temperature conditions (40° C.). At the end of this process, tresses were thoroughly rinsed under an Intellifaucet (Hass Mfg. Co., Averill Park, N.Y.) set at 37° C. with a flow rate of 1.0 GPM.
Internal control condition creams were selected from commercially available products that have previously been determined to represent performance extremes for different attributes. Comparative Conditioner 1 (“CC1”) was a bargain brand product that previous studies have consistently shown to be a relatively poor at providing surface lubrication. Control Conditioner 2 (“CC2”) was the moisturizing variant of a commercially successful hair care brand that has consistently shown high levels of surface lubrication. Each of CC1 and CC2 contains petrochemical materials.
Each tress was treated with one of the CC9, CC1 or CC2. All tress treatment was performed using an Intellifaucet set at 37° C. with a flow rate of 1.0 GPM. Tresses were first wetted for 30 seconds. Conditioner was syringe-applied to the hair at a dosage of 15% of the tress weight (i.e., 0.45 g product on a 3 gram tress). The product was massaged into the tress for 30 seconds, and then allowed to remain on the hair for additional 30 seconds. The product was then rinsed under the Intellifaucet for 30 seconds. A negative control consisting of a tress that was not treated with any conditioning cream was also evaluated.
Each tress was subjected to a wet combing evaluating performed in accordance with the widely used method first proposed by Garcia & Diaz (JSCC, 27, (1976) 379-398-Combability Measurements on Hair,) the contents of which are incorporated here in by reference. Wet combing experiments were performed using an Instron 5500 series tensile tester equipped with Bluehill software. Eight replicate hair tresses are used for each sample to ensure statistical relevance.
The results of the wet combing evaluations are shown below, and are plotted graphically in
Results of Wet Combing Evaluation
Treatment
N
Mean
Std Dev
Std Err Mean
Unconditioned Hair
8
64.3
1.40
0.50
A
CC1
8
21.7
1.61
0.57
B
CC9
8
18.0
2.06
0.73
C
CC2
8
14.3
1.41
0.50
D
Levels not connected by same letter are significantly different.
As can be seen from the results, Conditioner of Example 9 (CC9) has properties about intermediate relative to the properties of the two commercial control formulations. Thus, CC9 provides a wet combing performance that is comparable to many commercially available bodifying/volumizing conditioners.
CC9 was evaluated for its surface lubrication properties. Repeated brushing experiments provide a means to evaluate a conditioning products' ability to provide surface lubrication, therefore reducing hair snags, entanglements and abrasion which in turn reduces fiber (hair) breakage. The results of such tests are expressed as a count of the number of broken fibers as a function of combing/brushing cycles. Tresses were bleached and treated with CC9, CC1 and CC2 as described in Example 10, above. Each tress was brushed 10,000 times with subsequent counting of broken fibers. Brushing was performed using a repeated combing/brushing device, to ensure uniform application of brushing force across all tress samples. Eight replicate tresses were used. The results are shown below and are plotted graphically in
Treatment
N
Mean
Std Dev
Std Err Mean
Unconditioned Hair
10
197.9
16.46
5.21
A
CC1
10
61.3
5.87
1.86
B
CC2
10
43.5
4.09
1.29
C
CC9
10
40.7
5.03
1.59
C
Levels not connected by same letter are significantly different
The data demonstrate that CC9 protects against breakage at a level comparable to the positive control (CC2). Results suggest an approximate 80% reduction in the amount of breakage relative to Unconditioned Hair.
CC9 was evaluated for its ability to reduce static electricity build up in hair. Under low humidity conditions, hair has an especially low conductivity and so charges resulting from standard grooming practices (such as heat styling and brushing) are not readily dissipated. Many conditioner products aim to reduce static electricity build-up, although the mechanism by which charge is reduces has not yet been definitively elucidated. It appears likely that there is a contribution from lubrication (which reduces the amount of charge build up), and also an increased surface conductivity arising from the deposition of cationic surfactants (which facilitates charge dissipation).
Hair tresses were bleached and treated with CC9, CC1, and CC2, as described in Example 10. The method of Lunn and Evans (JSCC, (1977), 28, 549-569) (the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference) were used to quantify the anti-static benefit. Hair tresses were equilibrated at low humidity and then brushed. An appropriately placed sensor provided real-time measurement of the static build-up. Eight tresses were evaluated per sample. Untreated tresses were also evaluated. The results are shown below and are plotted graphically in
Treatment
N
Mean
Std Dev
Std Err Mean
Unconditioned Hair
10
1452.0
216.6
68.48
A
CC1
10
483.0
93.2
29.48
B
CC2
10
148.6
47.0
14.87
C
CC9
10
116.4
26.5
8.38
C
Levels not connected by same letter are significantly different
As can been seen from the results, CC9 provides comparable protection against static flyaway as the positive control.
Forty-four formulations of the invention were prepared to evaluate longer term shelf stability of the formula. The formulations 1-44 were prepared by mixing together the ingredients as set out in
In each of formulations 9-24, the ingredient called out as “Base I” is: behenyl alcohol 57.61%, stearyl alcohol 57.61%, isoleucine 14.25%, and ethane sulfonic acid 17.94%. In each of formulations 1-8 and 25-28, the ingredient called out as “Base II” is: Base I 33.26%, cetyl alcohol 33.26%, stearyl alcohol 33.26%, and sodium carbonate 0.22%.
The initial physical properties of pH and viscosity for each formulation were evaluated and are shown in
While it has been shown and described several embodiments in accordance with the invention and use thereof, it is understood that the same is not limited thereto, but is susceptible to many changes and modifications to one possessing ordinary skill in the art, and therefore we do not wish to be limited to the details shown and described herein, but intend to cover all such modifications as are encompassed by the scope of the appended claims.
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